Turbo Lag

In any discussion about turbocharging, the issue of turbo lag is sure to rear its ugly head. For many, turbo lag is a major issue but the issue of turbo lag is greatly misunderstood. No, turbo lag is not a myth, and yes, it does exist - in technical terms, turbo lag can be defined as the time it takes the turbo to spin fast enough to produce boost pressure.
However, it is not as bad as most people believe.

The problem originates in the 1980s when turbos and superchargers became so popular that several marques started producing OEM turbo vehicles like the 1983 Nissan EXA Turbo and the Mitsubishi Colt 1600 Turbo. With these vehicles, the issue of cost and reliability was more important than performance. In a sense the turbo was more of a marketing gimmick as a 78 kW turbocharged 1500cc motor cannot be described as a performance vehicle.

There are two things these manufacturers did to give turbo lag a bad name: to minimize costs they produced turbocharged vehicles without intercoolers and then, to deal with the increased temperatures of the compressed air that was pumped into the combustion chamber, and to minimize detonation, they lowered the engine's compression ratio. The Nissan EXA Turbo, for example has a compression ratio of 7.4:1 compare to the normally aspirated engine's compression ratio of 9.0:1! This robbed the engine of power and performance that was not compensated for by the turbo until the turbo spooled up and started producing boost pressure!

Fortunately, these vehicles were also fitted with small turbos so they spooled up quickly enough, but the small turbo also contributed to backpressure in the exhaust system. This affected the exhaust's scavenging ability and increased the possibility of reversion. In essence, it reduced the engine's volumetric efficiency, further robbing the engine of power and performance. Again, these deficiencies in performance were only overcome when the turbo started producing post pressure.

With a much lower compression ratio, increased back pressure and reduced volumetric efficiency, an OEM turbocharged vehicle was often out performed by its naturally aspirated brethren in those precious few seconds while the turbo spooled up to spin fast enough to produce boost pressure. Once the turbo spooled up and started creating boost pressure, it more than compensated for the deficiencies caused by the lowered compression ratio and lowered volumetric efficiency.

But today, with the advances in turbo technology and the use of an intercooler to remove some of the heat that is a natural side effect of compressing air, it is not necessary to lower the compression ratio. Indeed, with the proper use of an intercooler turbocharging has become a bolt-on accessory with no need to open the engine. Also, because you don't need to get boost pressure so quickly, you can run a slightly larger turbo that is better suited to the exhaust system and produces far less back pressure. This effectively takes turbo lag out of the equation. Even though the turbo will still have turbo lag, the engine's power and performance is not compromised by lowered compression ratios and increased backpressure.

So the use of a properly sized and efficient intercooler should be a compulsory part of any turbocharger system if you do not want to suffer the consequences of turbo lag.

Brent Harris served as an apprentice motor mechanic at Reitz Nissan in the late 1980s before going on to the University of the Western Cape where he obtained a MA. His passion has always been cars and he has extensive experience in modifying Nissan engines. He is currently self-employed and serves as the editor for http://www.custom-car.us

For more information on turbo lag, intercoolers, and other forced induction articles, visit our website.

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TURBO

Turbo installation:

Your knowledge and skill will determine if this is a difficult or easy swap. This was my first attempt at installing a turbo as well as my first experience modifying a Slant Six. My total cost was under $400 including a new exhaust system, and I was able to get the car running in 2 days. However, it took me many hours of tuning to get the car to run properly.

Even now I still have a lot of work to do. The best source for information I know of was a publication called "Real Safaris" (formally 21st Century Turbo). (The currrent address is unknown -ed.)

This newsletter was full of Turbo information. The members wrote in with questions, tech tips and pictures. At one point you could get a book, which is basically all past issues, and a one year subscription. This is what I did to install a turbo onto my SL6.

This is a totally custom setup. It wasn't really that hard. The turbo came off an 88 Dodge Lancer. It is a Mitisubishi turbo, slightly smaller than a TO3 that came on earlier 2.2s. Since the engine is totally stock and I didn't intend to spin it past 4000 RPM, the air flow requirements are about the same as a 2.2 spinning faster. Basically I just used with what I had, but a 2.2 TO3 may have been better and let's face it, these are pretty common in the wrecking yards these days. The "next step" is a TO4 from a Buick 3.8 Turbo Grand National or larger CID V8 but these might be slow to spool up on a stock 225.

I started by cutting the mounting flange off the 2.2 exhaust manifold and had it welded to the SL6 manifold. I cut the SL6 manifold right before the heat riser and put the flange on perpendicular with the head. This took a good amount of cutting, grinding and fitting work and you need to be sure to check the clearance of the turbo "snail" to the intake manifold base.

It probably would have been easier to just buy a mounting flange from Turbo City instead of finding a 2.2 manifold just to get a flange. The welding needs to be done by a qualified welder using nickel or cast iron welding rod, along with preheating and slow cooling the manifold. I have run the car hard enough so that the complete manifold and turbo assembly glows a dull red and have not had any cracking problems. Anyway, this manifold puts the turbo under the intake manifold and right in front of the starter. One of the new style, light weight starters would provide more clearance, but a stock one fits with almost no clearance. I have about 15,000 miles on the installation including a 6,000 mile trip from NY though TN and NC. So far this has not caused a problem. Take your time when laying out the manifold and do some trial fittings onto the engine with the starter, intake, front left engine mount bracket and dip stick in place. If you angle the turbo down slightly, you will have more clearance to the intake but then it comes close to the block. Don't forget to keep in mind the air intake and output lines while mocking up the turbo assembly and manifold.

I ran a 1/4 steel (brake line) oil pressure line off the oil pump where the idiot light hooks up by installing a "T" fitting. So far no problems there, but make sure to use a high quality line with compression fittings (flair fittings) as this line is subjected to intense pressure, heat and vibration and could crack.

I used a punch to put a 5/8" hole in the pan. (Punch, don't drill this hole. Punching "rolls-in" some material to create threads and keeps chips out of the oil pan.) Position this hole under the turbo and back where the #3 main cap is located. (Helps keep the oil off the rods flying by.) Place the hole up close to where the pan rail bolts to the block. Tap it 1/2" NPT (pipe thread) with grease on the tap to hold any metal chips. Clean everything well and epoxy in a fitting for the oil return line. Remember the oil return must be much bigger than the feed line, as the turbo does a good job of frothing the oil, making it drain slower. The return must be above the oil level in the pan.

I "T"ed off both heater hoses to supply and return coolant to the Turbo. I used 3/8" lines for both. An option to this is to spend additional time to drill & tap the water jacket access boss on the driver's side of the block, then run your water input line from there. The return can be "T"ed into one of the the water pump connections.

I used about 6 inches of the original 2.2 exhaust pipe and adapters to hook up to the stock exhaust system. The 2.2 pipe was 2 1/4" and the stock 225 pipe is only 1 3/4". After I got the car running and had a complete 2 1/2" system made, this increased performance dramatically. Note that turbos need big exhaust systems & low back pressure to spool-up fast and develop lots of boost.

I used the stock 2.2 air box, air cleaner and hose for the inlet side of the turbo.

As for the turbo's pressure output delivery, I used fiberglass to seal up the stock air cleaner. I attached a 2 inch steel pipe and used radiator hose to connect it to the turbo. Try to keep the rubber hose length to a minimum.

It is not easy to modify the power circuit of this carb, so I just increased the jet 14 sizes. (You must increase the amount of fuel to compensate for the increased air flow. - ed.) You must also supply additional fuel pressure in a blow though turbo setup. Fuel pressure must remain 4 to 7 psi over boost pressure.

The best way to do this is to run a line from the output side of the turbine (boost pressure) to the back side of the fuel pump diaphragm. There is a vent located here on most stock pumps which can be tapped for 1/8" pipe thread. I have found a 5/16" line is sufficient to feed the pressure over to the fuel pump. This simple setup will keep the fuel pressure above boost pressure at all times and requires no regulator.

I set the total mechanical timing to 16 degrees and ran 8 pounds of boost. I used a vacuum pot from a 318 and modified it to provide 25 degrees of vacuum advance. (There are adjustable vacuum advance pots available for the Slant Six. -ed.) This helped fuel mileage when not under boost by providing a more normal advance setting. As of this date it provided the best performance without detonation on premium pump gas. This is a tiral & error process and will take some time to get it right for your engine combination.

The setup worked out pretty slick. Once I had the system installed, it was carb rejetting, timing curve adjustments and a lot of trial and error work. I feel the turbo I used is a little small for a 225 SL6 but it spools up quick and runs pretty strong.

I did this more or less as a test. The car runs low 16's in the 1/4 mile with no drive train modifications (stock trans, rear end gearing etc.). The engine is a bit tired. It has over 210,000 miles on it now. Makes me wonder what this setup would do on a fresh motor with a little cam and some head work. The end result was a great increase in performance at the expense of increased fuel consumption. I have recently installed a 4 bbl manifold and a 600 cfm Holley. I use only the primaries, but this still seems a little large. Also, since the secondary side is wired shut, it causes a little turbulence problem at full throttle. The advantage to the bigger carb is being able to provide the addition fuel though the power circuit, not the main jets. Mileage is now about the same as stock, almost 19 on the highway, that is, if I keep it under 75.

This is the basics of my installation. There is a LOT of performance in a SL6, just waiting to get out once you find a way to get the fuel mixture in. As you can see, a turbo does this well.

Thanks for your interest and good luck,

Wayne

by Wayne

edited by Chuck Rivers & Doug Dutra

How the Scuderi Air Hybrid Engine works

Buying a Used Car? Sixteen Tips on How to Keep From Getting Ripped Off

Do you want to buy a quality used car but are afraid of getting ripped off?

You're not alone, and for good reason. Used car sales are far and away the most lucrative segment in the auto industry in terms of commissions that the sales people and dealership makes and therefore, the GREED factor comes in when selling cars is concerned. The potential for being taken advantage of increases for the unwary and uninformed car buyer.

Having said that, there are still quite a few honest, credible used car dealerships out there and if you are prepared with some of the tips in this article, then you can drive off with a nice, clean used car AND a good deal.

There are TWO basic types of Used Car Dealerships you need to know how to differentiate between the two.

1. Your garden variety of used car dealerships that most towns and cities have almost everywhere. These dealerships, generally sell cars bought at local auctions or were higher mileage cars bought form a local dealership, or taken as trade-ins on their lot. Generally speaking, you won't find the latest models with the lowest miles and still under warranty. What you CAN find are clean reliable cars, maybe with higher miles that you wouldn't find at a brand dealership, but often lower prices. The typical used car dealership has nowhere near the overhead of major dealerships so, their gross profit margin - the difference in costs they have in a car and what they can sell it for -- can be lower, thus, ideally, saving you some money.

Most of the better used car dealerships offer financing and warranties for all their cars at an extra cost, of course. Some, but not most have a place to service their cars before putting the car on their lot. You need to make sure whatever car you are looking at has at least had an updated inspection.

Used car dealerships can be a great place to find a good car, BUT, be careful, some of the cars can be rough around the edges and you need to know what to look for and how to look at a used car.

2. Your automobile dealerships that sell new and used cars. Usually, these dealerships keep a selection of what they like to refer to as "pre owned" or even "certified pre-owned" vehicles and they usually spend more time on the prep of the car before it goes on the lot. They have a shop and certified technicians to go over these cars and make sure these cars are in good shape. Especially the Certified Pre Owned cars need to look and run close like new. All of this does, of course make the Brand Dealership Used cars priced on the higher end. Be ready to haggle!

Buying a used car or "pre-owned" car can make a lot of sense regardless of where you buy one.

Any new car will drop 25 - 40% once it drives off the lot. In this day and age of better cars and cars lasting over 100k miles, used cars, especially almost any Japanese car, can last to well over 200k miles and you get an even better price. Again, make sure the Car Fax checks out!

BIG MYTH: "When you buy a used car, you're buying someone else's problem"Not necessarily so. Many used cars are lease turn ins. Many used cars the owners simply out grew the car or, like so many people on the road, they just like to trade cars often and change cars like underwear!

Following are some tips on how to maneuver through the sometimes shark infested waters of used car dealerships.

1. Know what you want. Or at least, have an idea. Do you want an economy car? A luxury sedan? An SUV? You will find a good selection on some of the many Used Car lots that dot our landscapes. A good way to shop discreetly is to shop online. Compare similar models and makes.

Check Consumer Reports for Best Used Car deals or the Kelly Blue Book online.

2. What will it cost? Once you have an idea of what you want, get an idea of what it would cost. The most popular and the oldest service is Kelly Blue Book. At KBB, you can select practically any model, make and year of vehicle and get a "good-better-best" price, depending on the vehicle condition and various features. With KBB, you can get a general idea of pricing or even narrow it down to specific features. For instance, if that cool sports sedan you've spotted at a lot has leather upholstery and alloy rims vs. cloth seats and wheel covers, then you'll pay more for the leather and rims. Also, you MUST know what the mileage on the car you are interested in. Cars with over 100,000 miles automatically drop in price compared to similar cars with under 100k miles.

3. Get a Car Fax report! A Car Fax report provides the detailed history of practically any vehicle on the road today.. To do this you need to accurately write down the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

A Car Fax report will tell you a LOT! It will tell you important stuff like: Has the car been wrecked? Total loss? Has the car been in a flood? Are there any recalls? Has the air bag ever been deployed? Has this car been "salvaged"? Has the car been inspected annually? How many owners and where? If the car you are interested in has been through several owners, that could be a red flag so pay attention to the number of owners in the past.

These are important things to know before even taking a test drive! You can get the Car Fax yourself, or ask the dealer to present you with a recent Car Fax Report.

NOTE: Any good used car dealer ship will likely have one on file and gladly show it to you.

IF this dealer Fancy Dances around this issue, then move on!

4. Visually Inspect the Car yourself! Walk around it and look at the fit and finish. Not all wrecked cars will be reported, but if you see uneven spaces between the doors, and hood and fender, then watch out! Check for "over spray". If the car was repainted, it may not show up on a Car Fax either. Look around the black moldings, and exterior fittings like headlights, door handles, etc. If you see "over spray" it likely means the car has been repainted. Now, for a car older than 10 years it could be perfectly reasonable to have a re-paint. Just try and find out who and where the work was done.

5. Look Under the hood. Even if you are clueless at what you are looking at, do this anyway. Is the engine clean? Is there mud on the inner sides? What do the battery cables look like? Clean or corrosion built up? Not good if the engine area is not spotless and had a good steam cleaning.

6. Check the oil and all the other fluid levels. This seems obvious, but still, you want to know if the oil has been changed and the fluids - brake and transmission -- are topped off. If any of these levels are low - RED FLAG!

7. Inspect the tire tread. A method for checking tread depth is to insert a penny in one of the grooves with Lincoln's head upside down and facing you. If you can see the top of old Abe's head, it is time to replace your tires and make sure the dealer knows this is a concern. At the bargaining table, you may get a new set of tires!

8. Inspect the wiper blades. Normal wear and tear on wiper blades are common, but if you are buying this car from a dealership of any kind, you should have fresh wiper blades.

Once you're satisfied that the car you are looking at is worth of your attention, THEN and ONLY then take if for a test drive!

Next step Test Drive!9. The salesman may or may not give you some BS about him driving the car off the lot and down the street some distance to switch for "insurance" reasons. Not true! They want to keep as much control over the process as possible that's all.

There are several things to look and listen for when starting out:

10. Start the engine with the window down so you can HEAR and SEE what its like.

Is the muffler quiet? Is there smoke blowing out?

11. Assuming you are in an automatic, move the transmission back and forth between the gears,

"P", "D", "R", "N" etc... does if shift easily? What does it sound like when you put it into the drive gear? If there is a CLANK sound, look out, could be trouble!

12. If it's a manual drive, make sure the gears shift easily from one gear to the next. Test the clutch.

Is there a lot of "play" when you press down before the clutch catches? If there is "play" then the clutch could be worn.

13. Driving. First, get into an open stretch and accelerate as fast as possible. Is the acceleration smooth? Does it hesitate or halt or stop? Not good!

14. BreakingNext, apply the brakes firmly but don't slam on the brakes. Does the car swerve to the left or right? If so, could be alignment problems. Not good! How far does the brake pedal go before engaging? If a lot, then the car may need brake work. If it goes to the floor, then you have real brake problems.

15. Interior Controls.Does the Air Conditioning work and blow cold? Is the heater working? How's the stereo?

Do the power windows roll up? Do the crank windows roll up easily?

Do the locks work? Make sure you take the time to learn about the interior aspects of your potential next car.

16. Take the car for a good drive! Have fun! Crank up the stereo! Bring along a CD to play!

Drive in traffic as well as on an Interstate Highway if possible. Listen for any unusual noises or loudness. Accelerate and brake frequently to test the car's responsiveness.

Okay, you took the Test Drive, you think you love the car, now what?

Make sure you have paid attention to steps 1, 2 and 3. Demand a Car Fax report. Always seriously pour over the report as if you were preparing your Last Will and Testament.

NEVER let the sales person know you are totally thrilled with the car or in any way desperate for a car. This opens up an opportunity to be taken advantage of.

Also, if you want to trade your old ride for a new one, NEVER tell the dealership you intend to trade up front because this can skew the numbers you are being offered. You ALWAYS want to know what the car will cost BEFORE the trade!

It goes without saying you need to be ready to walk away from any deal you are offered. If it smells fishy, it probably is! DO NOT let your emotions get the best of you! There's always as good or better car out there with your name on it!

In summary, be like the Boy Scouts whose motto is: "Be Prepared" and you will likely find a good car you can live with for several years or more.

J Gary Dean is an author and videographer in Greensboro NC. Also, a former used car salesman himself, Mr. Dean brings a unique perspective in the area of buying a used car.
Visit his website:
http://www.NCInternetAdvertising.com
or his blog:
http://www.WhoIsGaryDean.com

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5 Common Money Mistakes About Cars

he people recognize themselves in their commodities; they find their soul in their automobile, hi-fi set, split-level home, kitchen equipment.
Herbert Marcuse

When Solomon said there was a time and a place for everything he had not encountered the problem of parking his automobile.
Bob Edwards

Not having to own a car has made me realize what a waste of time the automobile is.
Diane Johnson

Car designers are just going to have to come up with an automobile that outlasts the payments.
Erma Bombeck

The automobile gives rise to intense passions in both sexes. Just a few decades ago car dealerships were places where women dared not go leaving the complex negotiations for a new car to their husbands, brothers and uncles. "Upside down on my car" was a phrase entrenched in the American lexicon long before the current economic meltdown turned "upside down on my house" into the catch phrase for the decade. Automobiles are expensive, yet they are the biggest waste of money imaginable and owning a vehicle defies every law of basic financial common sense there is. There are 5 common money mistakes most people make when purchasing a car.

1) Putting money down on a new car
2) Leasing a car
3) Trading in a car
4) Buying a new car every 3-5 years
5) Rolling old car debt into a new car purchase

Putting Money Down on a New Car

The author of a well-read and well-circulated financial blog, the Simple Dollar, wrote that you should put money down on a car in order to avoid GAP insurance. What is GAP insurance? GAP insurance stands for Guaranteed Auto Protection and is a supplemental form of auto insurance that covers the GAP between the residual value on the car if it is totaled out and the loan amount on the car. GAP insurance is an additional expense especially if you purchase a car that does not hold its value over the long run (as most don't) but is it worth giving up $3000-5000 cash to avoid the premium? Of course not. And here's why. Cars are depreciating assets. As a rule of thumb they lose 10-25% of their value each year for the first 3 years.

Putting any money down on a car, therefore, is a lot like taking a roll of Benjamins into your bathroom, lifting the lid and flushing 30 to 50 of those bills down the toilet. Any money that a new car purchaser puts down will not translate into equity in that car, but will disappear into thin air the moment the new owner drives that car off the lot. GAP insurance on the other hand is a relatively small expense a consumer may or may not choose to assume. Should the consumer choose to get GAP insurance, it is based on the value of the new car and the expected depreciation. For the top-ranked cars in terms of the least depreciation, GAP insurance will cost the least. For the cars that depreciate the most, GAP insurance will cost the most.

Kelly Blue book posts an annual list of cars that depreciate the least. Doesn't car insurance offer full coverage for a car? No it doesn't. Insurance companies are smart, they won't pay more than a vehicle is worth. Consumers do that. Car insurance will only cover the residual value of a car in the event of an accident, not the full loan amount owed on a car. Pay $20,000 for a new car and wreck it in the first year, your auto insurance will cover only the residual value of that car. If that residual value is $15,000 and you owe say $18,000 you are on the hook for the $3,000. Here are the basic things you can do to avoid this depreciation calamity and hang onto your money:

1) Only buy new cars that retain their value and negotiate the best deal you can
2) Only buy used cars (someone else has paid for the depreciation)
3) Save like a fiend so that you can "self insure", ie., cover the GAP in the event of an accident
4) If you don't do 1,2 or 3 buy GAP insurance because it is minuscule compared to the out of pocket costs of a down payment
5) Don't let your kids drive your car

Leasing a Car

The reason a car lease's monthly payment is so much less than the principal and interest payments on a car note is that the lessee is not amortizing the value of the car with the payment. The lessee is amortizing only the depreciation costs and paying interest to do so! As an example if the 3-year depreciation expense on a car $20,000 car is $10,000, the monthly payment on the lease is based on that 10K along with the interest rate. Sounds like a good deal, I suppose, until you figure in that the car dealer will get back a used car at the end of the lease that he intends to sell for the full value of its make and model. What this means is pristine physical condition and low mileage. If the car returns in anything other than perfect condition, the lessee will have to pay in the form of stiff mileage and wear and tear penalties. Lease a car back to back and you loose big time because you are always bearing the cost of someone else's depreciation.

Trading a Car

Basically my philosophy is that you buy the most reliable and high value car that you can, negotiate the best price that you can, pay it off and drive that vehicle for at least 10 years. Even if your vehicle is in pristine condition at the end of 5 years and you just have to have a new one, the dealer will give you at best 50 to 75% of the residual value of your car. The car dealer will make money twice: once on the new car you just bought and again on your trade in when they re-sell it for maximum retail value. It is great to give money away, but give it away to a charity and take the tax deduction. Your car dealer does not need your charity. Here are basic things you can do when you have a car to trade in:

1) Sell the car on Craig's list or advertise it in the newspaper getting the best deal you can for your car. Then you are free to use the money anyway you choose.

2) Sell the car back to a same brand dealer. I've done it. It works.

Buying a new car every 3-5 years

Buying a new car every 3-5 years means that you are always locked into a principal and interest payment on something that is always losing value. The only way to "win" with a car is during the years in which you are essentially driving that car for free. At the very least, you can spend your time paying yourself the principal and interest payments, it is a form of forced savings in which you can set yourself up to pay cash for your next car, or use the money to take that vacation you have always wanted to.

Rolling Old Car Debt into a New Car Purchase

I know people who are so far upside down on a car that they have to look up to see down. It is sad, really. A car dealer will give you the rope to hang yourself. I have only met one salesman who was willing to talk me out of rolling one car into another. I was so desperate to get rid of the car I had at the time. It was an SUV that had the nasty habit of stalling in the cold at altitude. If I had been driving it in Phoenix I would never have had a problem, but I insisted on driving it to the Ski areas in Colorado. Silly me. But I was desperate enough to roll the 22K owed on that vehicle into another car loan on a new vehicle. The truth of the matter is that most cars on the market will never out last that kind of debt, and rolling old car debt into a new car purchase will result in a cycle of indebtedness to a car that can be virtually impossible to break

I hope by now I have shattered any illusions that a car is an asset. The traditional rules of money down and extended payments that apply to acquiring genuine assets, such as investment property and businesses simply don't apply to a car. View a car for what it is, an essential transportation expense that will get you safely from point A to point B. As the quotes that head this article illustrate, cars incite passions that warp reality and good judgment understanding the 6 common money mistakes people make with cars will save you headache, heartache and money.

Ouida Vincent is a physician, active real estate investor and entrepreneur who has made more than her fair share of mistakes on the road to wealth. Ouida has made many of the mistakes she writes about and has come out on the other side. To find more interesting articles, business tips and key success philosophies go to http://www.ouidavincentsblog.blogspot.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ouida_Vincent

Car Scratch And Dent Repairs

Paint less dent repair is for minor repairs. Auto S.M.A.R.T. handles visible damage and required dents. This company has grown with its own reputation and doing fabulous work. The company has its well-equipped workshop and undertakes painting, dent repair, interior repair, alloy wheel repairs and other related repair work.

Dent repair has various techniques. Paint less dent repair is one of the methods, which is commonly used. In this process, the damaged area becomes visible after aging of the car. Therefore, when the damaged area is deep then painting is necessary. Painting the area eliminates the possibility of visibility of damaged area.

There are services like Auto S.M.A.R.T. who handles such repair work efficiently and at a lower cost. The best part of their service is they come to you instead you going to them. They repair the dent by using metal levers and utilize the paint less dent removal method. This is skilled job and unless you are experienced, the precision repair is not possible. For bigger dents, this method is not useful. For small sized dents, this is a wonderful method.

Apart from the dent repairs, Auto S.M.A.R.T. services are superior in alloy wheel refurbishment. This requires efficient and experienced handling. Removal of tyre is necessary to repair the alloy wheel. This allows the mechanic to access the extent of damage to the wheel and accordingly repair work is undertaken. They use a specific chemical before removing the tyre, which prevents the wheel from damage during the process. The scuffs and gouges inspected for repair. Deep damages filled in the similar process of body dent. After the process of filling and polishing is over paint is coated, which is commonly a silver paint. This process gives the alloy wheel a new look and thereby saving money.

The company visits the specified place that saves time with their mobile service. They undertake the straightening job of the wheel. Uneven vibrations lead to wear and tear of tyre. It damages the tyre and reduces the life. Their professionals are competent and use latest technology for the repair work. They reset the alloy wheel back to shape in a couple of hours. Alloy wheel that is severely bent removed to the workshop for repair, since it may not be possible for on sight repair.

Several companies repair only the visibly damaged area without inspecting the total area of the alloy wheel. This process is incorrect and insufficient repair work. Moreover, cosmetic repair is skilled technique, which results in precision finish


For professional car dents and scratch repairs use our mobile vehicle repair that handle the repair in less time. For further details, contact us at www.autosmartuk.co.uk
by:Jamie Hanson

Saving Money Tips - Buying a New Car

A new car sounds lovely doesn't it? Imagine the purr of the new engine and the looks you will get as you drive down the road in the latest model of your chosen car. However, we also know that the new model of today will be the old superseded model in the not too distant future and that the value of the car will go down very quickly.

So with this in mind we really need to be careful when considering whether or not to buy a new car.

Before rushing off to the car yard, you should grab out a large sheet of paper and write up the top "Do I really need to buy a new vehicle?" Then let the brain cells take a journey and come up with all of the reasons that you can to justify going out and getting a new car. Underneath this, write down all of the reasons to justify why you shouldn't go out and buy a new car.

Here are some ideas to get you started and some common reasons that people write down:

1. Reasons to buy a new car

Car too small / big

• Starting a family and need more room
• Can't fit in all of my gear
• Can't transport all of the kids and their friends around
• It is just us now so we don't need such a large car
• We are going away so we need more leg room and storage capacity

No air conditioning

• It is just so hot each summer we bake in our car

No air bags

• The car has never been fitted with air bags

Lacking accessories (stereo / cd player / gps)

• We need to have a cd player
• Some new vehicles have an in built GPS so we need one too
• The stereo is broken so we need to replace the car

Costing too much money to run

• I am always spending money on this car
• The car always seems to be at my mechanic

Need to look good at work

• My car is a status symbol of my wealth
• My boss would look down on me if I didn't drive a new car
• Having a new car will portray a message to my clients that I am very successful

Too old

• My car is x years old so it needs to be replaced
• I have had this car x years so it is time for an upgrade to a new model
• This model is old, I need the newer model

Petrol guzzler

• I am always putting fuel into this car
• I checked my credit card statement and boy my car is thirsty
• I used to put in $x of fuel a week and now I am putting in $y

Running too fast / slow

• I can't keep up with every one else on the road
• My foot is almost flat to the floor and yet we hardly seem to be moving
• If I don't sell this I am going to do damage to someone as it just zips off so fast I can't keep in control

Want security of a new vehicle warranty

• I do a lot of travel for work and I want peace of mind if something was to happen
• If the car is under a warranty I won't have to spend any money on it

No longer road worthy

• The mechanic said the car isn't road worthy
• I don't think the car would pass a road worthy test

Want to keep up with the Jones

• My friend has just purchased one of these new cars so I want one
• The neighbours have just purchased a new car so we should also buy one

I have been offered a good trade in

• The new car sales man has offered me a good trade in
• I want to trade now whilst I can get good value for my current car

I want a diesel vehicle

• I want to change from petrol to diesel as I heard it is more fuel efficient

I need a ute / 4wd / sedan

• I want to change from a sedan to a ute
• I need to trade the ute for a 4wd
• I need a 4wd for my upcoming holiday
• I need a ute so I can shift houses

2. Reasons not to buy a new car

Can't afford it

• The repayments will be too high
• It is a lot of money for me to spend on a car
• The loan will take me 7 years+ to pay back

Don't really need a new car

• I am being silly, I don't really need a new car
• There are other things I need ahead of getting a new car

Old car is going well

• My old car works just fine
• I can always get from A to B so what else do I need

Too expensive

• Although it is new, I feel it is still very expensive
• There is a big gap between 2nd hand cars of 2-3 years to the price on these new cars

Will drop in value too quickly

• I have heard as soon as you drive a new car out of the show room they drop significantly in value
• 2nd hand cars seem like a much better alternative, I have seen they are much lower in value

Expensive on-road costs and stamp duties

• When I buy a new car I will have to incur extra fees such as on-road costs and stamp duties. Aren't these costs in the thousands?

Insurance will increase

• When I get a new car, I know my insurance premium will increase significantly

Young family

• I don't know if my kids will look after a new car or treat it well; they are always banging the car doors into things
• I know that kids are kids and it is hard to keep a car nice with them around

Have better things to spend my money on

• I do have a lot of other important items on my wish list; a new fridge, high school fees, reduce mortgage, etc

Work may provide a vehicle

• Work may offer me a car as part of my package at my next salary review

3. Then you need to carefully look at both lists and to analyse all of the reasons you have written down

• How important is the reason you wrote down?
• Look through your list and decide which reasons you have written down contain something that is a must have - this might be for safety reasons or security
• Be careful here and very honest with yourself with what you consider to be absolutely critical
• Look through your list and decide which items you have written down is a nice to have but something that you could do without - this might be a gadget or feature of the car that isn't absolutely critical
• Take the time to rank each item from 1 to 10 in level of importance
• Look through your list of reasons not to buy a new car. How strong and valid are these reasons?
• It is important that you spend a decent amount of time doing this exercise and that you are somewhere nice and quiet where you can really think about yourself very carefully. This exercise could save you thousands of dollars!

4. As part of your analysis you should now spend time looking for alternatives. Start with the items that are of highest importance to you.

Car too small / big

• Consider hiring a trailer
• Consider hiring a car for the holidays
• Clean out your car and see what space you then have

No air conditioning

• Check out the cost to have this fitted to your current car

No air bags

• Check out the cost to have this fitted to your current car

Lacking accessories (stereo / cd player / gps)

• How much will it cost to have one fitted
• Can you use a portable cd player / stereo
• How much is a portable GPS
• Can you make do with the radio

Costing too much money to run

• Work out how much your car has actually cost you over 12 mths
• Seek a professional opinion on the vehicle from your mechanic or local automobile club
• Look carefully at how you treat your vehicle. Are you causing some of this cost?
• What about your driving habits? Is this the cause of costing you money? Ie heavy braking or is your foot too heavy on the accelerator

Need to look good at work

• You can still look good in a later model vehicle
• Talk to your boss about being provided with a company car when you need to entertain clients
• Talk to your boss about hiring cars / taxis when you need to entertain clients or travel
• It seems pointless trying to look wealthy by owning a new vehicle if it is causing you financial grief and hardship. You will not be successful in your career if you spend all day worrying about how to pay your bills
• Consider that a new car may put some clients off - your services may appear too expensive or that you don't value money as you spend it on unnecessary items that decrease in value

Too old

• How old is too old? There are some decent vehicles on the road that are 7-10 years old that are still running perfectly
• Who states that there is a set time frame that you need to replace your vehicle
• What will the newer model provide you with that your current car doesn't provide you with

Petrol guzzler

• Look at how much running around you are doing and whether or not you can seek alternatives such as car pooling, doing multiple tasks whilst out
• Has your car been serviced recently? You might have a problem with your car that is easy to fix that is causing the extra fuel consumption
• Consider how much the price of fuel has risen recently. Is this the real reason your petrol has increased
• How much of the fuel bill on the credit card contains other items such as food and drink that you bought at the petrol station?

Running too fast / slow

• Has your car been serviced recently? You might have a problem with your car that is easy to fix that is causing this to happen

Want security of a new vehicle warranty

• Understand what is offered under the warranty
• Consider having road side assistance from your local automobile club in case of break down
• Keep your vehicle regularly serviced
• Travel with a mobile phone so you can call for help in the case of an emergency

No longer road worthy

• Get a couple of opinions on the road worthy status of your vehicle from a mechanic or your local automobile club
• Establish how much it will cost to get the vehicle road worthy
• Seek a professional's opinion on this matter

Want to keep up with the Jones

• Why why why, do you need to keep up with what someone else is doing?
• Be an individual and live your own life and not those of others

I have been offered a good trade in

• A trick / marketing strategy for selling new cars is to lure people in by offering a high trade in
• You either get a high trade in or low purchase price - it generally doesn't happen that you get both
• Is the salesman playing around with figures? They sometimes up the price of the trade in and lower the discount on the new car OR they sometimes lower the price on the new car and lower the price on the trade in
• If you waited a year or two before swapping vehicles, what do you think you might get as a trade in then

I want a diesel vehicle

• How much will it cost to get diesel fitted to your current car
• Are there any government rebates in relation to diesel fitouts

I need a ute / 4wd / sedan

• Can you hire the ute / 4wd / sedan for the particular period of use if it is only short term / one off
• Can you borrow a friend's ute / 4wd / sedan
• Is it worth paying a tradesperson to do your job to negate this requirement

Detective Heather Wood is Managing Director and writer for Money Detective Pty Ltd.

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